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The flat slip stitch is absolutely my favorite way to join granny squares. Granny squares can be so fun to make, but with so many colors you end up with about 8,675,309 yarn ends to sew in. Sewing in ends is my personal version of hell so I was thrilled to find a new option: crocheting the squares together instead. The flat slip stitch allows me to crochet the squares together quickly while maintaining a clean, polished look with no tell-tale ridge.
A FEW OF THE REASONS I LOVE THE FLAT SLIP STITCH SEAM:
The slip stitch creates a subtle "braid" look that blends into the fabric but creates a stunning impact when looking at the texture of the squares. It's nearly invisible as a seam, but what you can see is beautiful and classic.
This is the flattest seam that you can crochet with a hook. The whipstitch and mattress stitch seams are also flat, but they are hand-sewn seams.
This is implied in the previous point, but it bears repeating: Less sewing!
So without further ado, here are the steps to crochet a flat slip stitch seam!
What you'll need:
Crochet hook- Usually you will use the same one you made your project with, though sometimes if you have pulling as you're working on the seam, you might want to switch to a crochet hook one size up or down. This is subjective though and entirely up to you. I use this set of crochet hooks so I always have varying sizes available as needed.
A few tips and tricks before you start:
Make sure you lay out all your squares in the order you plan to join them so you can make any adjustments to the appearance before you start stitching. When I work on a larger project, I like to take a picture on my phone of the arrangement so that if something happens to move them around (for me, this is usually a cat running across them- the squares go flying!) you can still join them in your original order without having to figure it all out again from scratch.
Use locking stitch markers to hold the corners of your squares (or any other shape) together. This helps to make sure everything lines up correctly as you work, and prevents the fabric from being pulled unevenly in any direction. My favorite stitch markers to use are the Clover Locking Stitch Markers.
Step 1: Line up the edges to be seamed, with the right side of your squares facing up. As mentioned above, I like to use locking stitch markers to help hold the project together.
Step 2: Create a slip knot with the yarn you plan to use on your hook. Keep the loop relatively loose so it's easy to pull through when you make your first stitch.
Step 3: Place the working yarn underneath the pieces to be seamed. ALWAYS keep the working yarn under your project, and move your hook above the working yarn as you pick up stitches from each side.
Step 4: With your working yarn on the left of your hook, insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch in the square on the right. There should now be two loops on the hook (the loop you just put your hook through, and your beginning loop).
Step 5: Move your hook over the working yarn, and then insert it into the back loop only of the first stitch in the square on the left. There will now be a total of three loops on the hook.
Step 6: Yarn over again, and pull through all three loops on the hook. There should now only be one loop on your hook (the loop you just pulled).
Repeat steps 4-6 for the remainder of the seam you are crocheting. If you start to notice that your project has a bump or ridge where you are seaming, then frog it back and adjust where you are holding your yarn. The back bump of the slip stitches should always land on the bottom (underside) of your finished project.
Finish: Once you reach the end of the seam, cut your yarn and pull the tail through your last loop. Pull tight to secure the yarn. Weave in loose ends.
This stitch is gorgeous from the top and bottom. Below I've shared a photo of the underside of a blanket I used this seam on. No matter what side you display with this stitch, it will still look polished and professional!
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